San Miguel (population 60,000) is the only city on Mexico’s largest island, Cozumel – 28 miles (47 km) long and 11 miles (15 km) wide. Cozumel rests in the Caribbean 12 miles (19 km) off the coast of Quintana Roo, some 42 miles (68 km) south of Cancún.

A scrub brush jungle covers the northern half of the island, which is virtually uninhabited (along with the southern portions, the interior and the windward east coast). A road loops the entire southern part along the sea, then cuts back into town, dividing the island in half. The windward eastern beaches, best suited to beachcombing and shell collecting, are rocky, dramatic, impressive, gorgeous and too rough and dangerous for swimming (Playa Chen Rio is the exception.) The leeward western beaches feature picture-perfect white sand, gentle lapping waves, warm turquoise blue water and a series of vibrant living reefs. They offer good swimming, snorkeling and diving.

Two ferry services – a car ferry from Puerto Morelos and a people ferry from Playa del Carmen – serve Cozumel from the Yucatán mainland. Reach Playa using one of the frequent public buses from Cancún’s downtown terminal; a cab will take you for about US $30 (negotiated). The ferry service from Playa to Cozumel (45 minutes, US $5) changes schedule as often as we change underwear so check at one of the ticket booths.

San Miguel also has an international airport with some direct flights from the United States and numerous 15-minute connecting flights from Cancún (call Aerocozumel at phone 98/84- 20-00). If you’re on a cruise, you’ll find taxis lined up at the pier to take you downtown or on an island tour. Even if you are just there for the day, we’ll point out the best places to eat and shop, as well as what to do.

Cozumel streets are laid out well and it’s easy to know where you are once you get used to them. Av. Rafael Melgar is the main road running along the western waterfront. It becomes the North Road and South Road out of the downtown. Streets running north and south, parallel to the water, are avenidas and those running perpendicular to the sea, east and west, are calles. The sole exception to this is Av. Benito Juárez, which cuts San Miguel and the island into northern and southern halves. The streets north of Juárez are marked norte and have even numbers (2, 4, 6, etc.). All the calles south of Juárez are sur and are given odd numbers (3, 5, 7, etc.). Vehicles traveling north and south are supposed to have the right of way, while those traveling east and west are required to stop on every corner.

Besides taxis (a good choice when going direct from one place to another), three types of personal transportation are available: motorbikes, bicycles and rented cars or Jeeps. Many major hotels rent motorbikes or cars and every street corner downtown near the dock has men hawking rentals. The prices are pretty much the same between individual renters, especially near the dock, but you could try going to some of the shops in town or waiting until the crowd disburses before negotiating.

Parking can sometimes be scarce in town so be careful of No Parking zones (including red curbs). Your car could be towed or the license plate removed so that you pay a fine at the rental agency.  If you are in a group, or want to really see every detail of Cozumel’s wilderness, try getting a good deal on a Jeep.

Last but not least, pick up a free Blue Guide to Cozumel, available all over the island and at the ferry. It has some valuable discount coupons and fun-reading tidbits.

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